Porubskys, pickles and pals

By PHIL ANDERSON

The Capital-Journal

Charlie and Lydia Porubsky are famous for providing Topeka with some of the best chili and hot pickles around.

In the process, their grocery, deli and pub — located in a small red building at 508 N.E. Sardou in the “Little Russia” section of North Topeka — has served as a gathering spot for people from all walks of life for decades.

Those who go there feel like they are a part of the Porubsky family.

On Saturday night, longtime customers and friends got a chance to say thanks for all the good times when the Porubskys threw a party celebrating their 50th year in business. The party was at American Legion Post 400, 3029 N.W. US-24 highway.

A crowd estimated at more than 300 people attended. The American Legion parking lot was full. Cars spilled over to a field south of the building.

The turnout seemed to catch Porubsky off guard.

“I never expected anything like this,” he said as he scanned the full meeting hall while a polka band played behind him. “I expected maybe 150 or 200 people.

“Even the mayor’s here.”

In fact, Mayor Joan Wagnon read a proclamation naming Saturday as “Porubsky’s Day” in Topeka. Similar proclamations were issued by the governor and secretary of state.

Wagnon said she owed her recent election victory in part to Porubsky.

“I think one of the reasons I’m sitting in the mayor’s chair is because of Charlie Porubsky and his chili,” Wagnon said. “I think I carried North Topeka because he put his picture on my campaign flier.”

Just like on an average day at Porubsky’s deli, a number of politicians, judges, city leaders and just plain folks were on hand Saturday night. So, too, was an array of Porubsky cold cuts, pickles, beer and soft drinks.

“He’s a guy you’ve always got to stop in on if you’re running for office,” said Vic Miller, a former Shawnee County commissioner. “It just happens that they’ve got good beer and good chili. It’s a good place to do your politicking.”

Also present was Shawnee County District Judge James Buchele, who said Porubsky has made a valuable contribution to the community by staying in business for so many years.

“He’s a Topeka institution,” Buchele said, “and kind of like a port in the storm on a cold winter day.”

Porubsky, 74, and his wife, Lydia, 72, who are lifelong North Topeka residents, have kept their business afloat through many trials. Included were the 1951 flood, which ravaged their building, and a fire that nearly wiped them out in 1967.

Every time they encountered adversity, they rebuilt in the same spot. In large part, it was a labor of love for Topeka and for their customers.

Billy Pierson, 21, who is the Porubskys’ grandson, worked at the establishment for five years. He said Saturday night’s reception was an indication of the widespread appreciation for his grandparents’ hard work.

“It’s a tribute to a family-owned operation that’s been loyal to the community, especially North Topeka, for 50 years in the same location,” he said. “Even through a flood and a fire, they’ve stayed at the same place. They kept coming back.

“This is a tribute to their 50 years, to keeping their customers happy.”

Porubsky’s is well-known locally, but it also has received mention in national and international publications on unique eateries in the United States.

Customers say one reason for Porubsky’s endearing popularity has been the way the business has seemingly stood still despite changing times.

The tiny two-aisle grocery with an old-fashioned meat counter is upstairs. Down a couple of steps is the pub and tavern area, with several small booths and bar stools, from which the Porubskys dispense cold plates, hot pickles, chili in season, beer and soda.

“Everything else in Topeka has changed,” said Lloyd Rupp, 67, who was born in Little Russia. “But Charlie and his store haven’t.”

Over the years, many people have speculated on the secret ingredients in Porubsky’s chili and hot pickles.

But the real recipe for their business success, and the reason they have so many friends, has to be the way they have run their business and treated their customers like family.

“When you go over there, you forget who you are and what you are,” said Bill Domme, 42. “Everybody’s the same. You’re all family. You’re all equal. You have a good time.”

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